*~*Things To Have When You Bring Your Chin Home*~*

CAGES - It is best to get a cage that is stainless steel in design, such that acidic urine from chinchillas will not get it rusty. The bottom of a cage usually comes in two varieties: A grilled wire mesh bottom or a solid bottom. A wire mesh bottom is easier to clean (if litter pan slides out and doesn’t lift out) than a solid bottom cage. However, there are cases where chinchilla feet has been caught, so make sure that the wire mesh on the bottom is not larger that 1/2" X 1/2". DO NOT buy a cage with a lot of plastic on the inside (some ferret cages) NO plastic shelves and running tubes, or NO cages with PVC coating. They will just gnaw and chew it off. Solid bottom cages are a tad messier because of shavings. But this can be resolved by getting urine guards which can easily be homemade. I also prefer these as chins if kept on all wire floor without having any access to bedding can get sores on their feet. Keep in mind size limits: 2' X 2'X 2’ is the smallest recommended size for 2-3 Chins need plenty of jumping and running room. I highly recommend www.martinscages.com for a nice chin safe cage.
Often Pet shops and other such suppliers will sell an overpriced plastic or wooden cage that is not right for your chin. On many occasions I have seen long tall birdcages being sold as suitable cages for chins, which they are not. Generally speaking these pet shops never know where the chin is going, so don’t care about the type of cage it lives in, where as a reputable breeder will usually offer advice and further contact after a purchase has been made with them.
A clear airflow is needed but not drafts, these can kill a chinchilla, as can heat exhaustion if the temperature exceeds 78 degrees f. The cage should not be positioned in direct sunlight as it can become too hot for them. The room in which the cage lives should by light airy and dry, NOT damp, as this can cause fur fungus.
When transporting the chinchilla you should think carefully as to what you will carry it in, as if it is a long distance trip it will chew a plastic carry box, which could make it ill. Also, a cardboard box will pose no obstacle to a chinchilla, not to mention ventilation is poor. Below are great examples of transporting chins.
*This is an official show cage and ideal for transporting your chin. (Cage by Paul Spooner www.chillaquip.freeuk.com)
*Or I use small pet animal kennels for cats like this.

WATER BOTTLES & FOOD CONTAINERS - A good container for drinking water is important for chinchillas. They come in the form of plastic bottles, and glass bottles. When you are having a plastic water bottle, be sure to have a proper water guard for it because a chewed plastic bottle will leak until it is empty. I use glass and highly recommend these particular ones found at www.mortonjones.com call to order 1-800-443-5769, Here are their order numbers: (#LBG8) 8oz is - $3.10 and (#LBG16) 16oz is $4.50. Glass is easier to clean, and is non-porous so you don’t have to worry about it absorbing bacteria. DO NOT USE WATER TRAYS OR BOWLS. Be sure to clean the bottle and change the water DAILY. In failing to do so, bacteria will grow and will cause illness to your chinchilla. For your chins food, I have tried several things. I finally found something that works best. First off, DO NOT USE BIN FEEDERS. These are dangerous due to chins climbing into them and suffocating. There have been reports of this. Bowls are recommended, I myself do not recommend any that do not attach to the cage because a lot of the food gets wasted from your chins running and jumping and playing. Kicks food out, tips bowl over, etc. I have Stainless steel bird coop cups (10oz). These can also be found at Petsmart in the bird section. They have a holder that mounts on the cage, then you drop the bowl into the holder and `voila! Elevate the feeder some too, to keep chins from perching on it as much (although some still might) and so it don't hurt their back.

SHAVINGS - Shavings are a must to absorb urine when the chinchillas pee. Other than using a litter pan filled with shavings, the bottom of the cage should also be lined with 'safe shavings'. There are many forms of shavings available, but the one that I most suggest is the Kiln Dried Pine Shavings. DO NOT Use Cedar Shavings! OR any shavings with scents/perfumes, or oils to reduce odor!! It can cause respiratory distress. Kiln Dried Pine Shavings is the best for most chins Just make sure that it is 100% kiln dried all natural pine. Do not ever use newspaper to line the cage.

DUST BATH - Just like everyone else, Chinchillas need to be kept clean. Because their fur is so fine they can't be given a normal bath with soap and water. When it comes to their bathing, they have an extraordinary way of doing so. They bathe in 'dust baths'. Most chinchillas love their baths. Chinchillas taking baths can be a real messy affair. Dust powder will start spewing from the moment they enter the 'bath tub'. Also, watch your chinchillas while they are taking baths because they can quickly pee in it and will dirty themselves again.
It is highly recommended also that you always keep some anti-fungal powder (this isn’t absolutely necessary with just one or two chins as pets though) in the dust bath for a preventative against fur fungus/ringworm. I ONLY recommend Tinactin, which can be found at most grocery and drug stores. Put a teaspoon per cup of dust bath. Only a cup of dust bath is recommended. Refresh with all new dust and powder WEEKLY. Sooner if soiled. They should get into their dust bath 2-3x a week, and don't let them stay in there for too long, or they will do their 'business' in there, therefore not exactly making it a clean haven anymore. Do not give your chinchillas dust baths every day because it will dry out their skin. I recommend about 2 - 3 times per week.

HAY - Hay is one thing that Chins eat daily. Edible hay comes in all sorts of varieties. Among all, the most common hay fodder being fed to chinchillas would be timothy and alfalfa. I only recommend LOOSE Timothy hay and it can be free fed, they must have this forage in their diet. All chinchilla pellets primarily are Alfalfa based so they do not require and excessive amount of more alfalfa for it is too high in calcium. This is why Timothy hay is recommended. Alfalfa cubes however should be given in moderation, a small cube per week. Its good for their teeth and kinda like a snack. 2nd Cut Timothy hay is the best.
The hay that I recommend and use are either found at www.oxbowhay.com or www.americanpetdiner.com. Pet store hay is NOT RECOMMENDED unless it’s a fresh bale from a feed store. Pet store hay (ie: Petsmart/Petco etc.) is typically stale, brittle, and too old by the time it gets on the shelf. It is typically brownish in color. HAY IS NOT GOOD IF IT HAS A BROWN TINT TO IT. Hay should be a bright green color and fairly pliable. I give alfalfa cubes and loose timothy hay daily.

PELLETS - Pellets should be given as part of a chinchilla's daily diet. I give mine APD-Alffy Pellets (American Pet Diner) and I prefer all babies of mine to be on this diet. It can be found at www.americanpetdiner.com. It is all natural, and the chins poo looked most healthy, and the pregnant chins lactated much better. I have been on Mazuri and Kline also, and this by far is my favorite feed. Here is it’s analysis:

Benefits Guaranteed Analysis

Provides complete daily nutrition
Rice Bran for increased energy and alertness

Fortified with essential vitamins
Special Yeast Culture stabilizes micro flora

Excellent for growing & finishing
Small 1/8 inch pellet for ease of eating

Yucca extract prevents respiratory problems

Yucca Extract for odor control
Provides a shiny coat of hair

Stabilized Vitamin C for increased health and prevention of dental problems Mold inhibitors added to reduce chance of mycotoxins

INGREDIENTS:

Suncured Alfalfa Meal, Dehulled Soybean Meal, Molasses Dried Beet Pulp, Ground Wheat, Whole Pressed Safflower Seed Meal, Corn Oil, Soybean Oil, Monocalcium& Dicalcium Phosphate, Calcium Carbonate, Yeast Culture (Diamond V "XP"), Calcium Lignosulphonate, Salt, Yeast Cell Wall Extract, D,L- Methionine, Vitamin E Supplement, L-Ascorbic Acid Phosphate (Stabilized Vitamin C), Mold Inhibitor (Propionic Acid, Acetic Acid, Sorbic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Ammonium Hydroxide), Zinc Methionine, Manganese Methionine, Copper Lysine, Cobalt Glucoheptonate, Chromium Tripicolinate, Flavoring, Mixed Tocopherols, Rosemary Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Lecithin, Silicon Dioxide (carrier for liquid antioxidants), Yucca Schidigera Extract, Vitamin A Supplement, Folic Acid, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Menadione Sodium Bisulfite (source of Vitamin K activity), Calcium Pantothenate, Riboflavin Supplement, Choline Chloride, Niacin Supplement, Thiamine Hydrochloride, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, D-Biotin, Vitamin B-12 Supplement, Zinc Sulfate, Manganese Sulfate, Ferrous Sulfate, Copper Sulfate, Ethylene Diamine Dihydroiodide, Sodium Selenite.

The most common chinchilla diet and most readily available is Mazuri which is now also carried at Petsmart. This would be the ONLY food I’d ever recommend from Petsmart. It can also be found at www.lonestarchinchilla.com, www.chinworld.com and you can even possibly find a local dealer like I have by going to www.mazuri.com. Mazuri is a DECENT and suitable feed. However not my TOP choice due to the corn it has in it. Any other Pet Store pellets tend to not be very fresh and they have little to NO nutritional value. Some are also full of colored treats. PLEASE DO NOT feed your chin pet store pellets!! If you want your chin to live many years you will get them on a decent feed. Do note that proper air-tight containers must be used to hold pellets after the seal is opened. If the pellets have a strong stench or smell oily, it is best to discard them.

CHEW TOYS - Chinchillas having long and sharp teeth is not a joking matter. First of all, a chinchilla's sharp frontal teeth can draw blood if it were to bite the owner unintentionally. Secondly, long unground teeth can be fatal to a chinchilla because it can be so overgrown that it can end up puncturing a chinchilla skull. Therefore, it is also the duty of a chinchilla owner to become a good 'dentist'. There are hundreds of chew toys available for chinchillas, ranging from chew blocks, wood, pumice stones, etc. The best ruling guide is to use materials as natural as possible to avoid any complexities. Getting some non-treated pine 2x4's or dowels is always a plus. I give my chins hanging bird wood chews. They love to chew on them and not only do they like to chew them, but they like to play with them! These can be found at Petsmart. Do not use any with plastic, rope, nuts, or anything that the chin could digest wrong, other than wood. Certain edible branches are great to have in their cage also, you can find these at Petsmart in the bird section, or www.freedomexpressories.com can make some for you for MUCH CHEAPER. They also make all kinds of other wood chews for chinchillas. NO PLASTIC TOYS! they can bite off a piece of plastic and choke, not to mention it's bad for their digestive tract.

FUN STUFF - Chinchillas want to have fun too! Peek-a-boo items, tissue boxes and perches are excellent considerations for a chinchilla's home. First, there should be one hideout area in the cage for frightened chinchillas. Second, a wooden perch such as Leap N Ledges; very popular with most chinchillas, these can be found at Petsmart and www.chinworld.com. Third, an exercise wheel so that the chaps can run their extra miles. DO NOT USE WIRE WHEELS OR ANY WHEELS FROM PET STORES! They can get a leg caught and can get broken. There are ONLY TWO different types of wheels I will recommend which can both be found at www.chinchillas.com. This one, And This one, Unless you can get one of these wheels then don’t get a wheel at all! These are the only safe ones. And NEVER ever put your chinchilla in one of the large running balls that look like hamster balls. The ventilation is very poor in them, and they get overheated very easily, also do to over exerting themselves to make it “go”. Chinchillas can and HAVE died of heat strokes in these. They are a HUGE NO NO!

TREATS - Just as human have themselves a favorite treat, Chinchillas do too. They should be rewarded when having good behavior (for ex: coming straight to their cage after play time). Chinchillas are notorious little beggars when it comes to raisins. Treats have always been given to chinchillas as controlled food. It is unwise to give huge amount of goodies to them on a daily basis because it is inadequate for their digestive system. Just as a five year old child eating a whole bag of candy is bad, it's bad to give a chin too many treats. The only difference is that the chin won't be able to tell you his/her tummy hurts, and a child will scream about it. Raisins and Peeled Apple Chunks are nice treats, but you can also go to Chin World, or LoneStar Chinchilla to find even more chin approved treats. Keep in mind 'moderation'! I give each of my chins three raisins every morning.

IF ILL - It is more than likely that a chin will get sick from time to time. The best way to get a sick chinchilla on it's feet is to see a vet immediately. However, there is some precautionary that can be taken by the owner before hand. Also you can help cure some problems by yourself. For the example, general diarrhea might be cured with the reduction of moistened edibles such as raisins and alfalfa hay. The stable diet for the ill chinchilla should then consist of water, pellets, and timothy hay. I also give mine Pedialite when diarrhea occurs so that the chin does not become dehydrated as easily. And a small piece of burnt bread can be given, the charcoal eases the stomach. If the symptoms still persist after two to three days, the chinchilla must then be seen by a vet for appropriate examination. As a rule of thumb, illness left unchecked for a few days is usually fatal for any chinchilla. Two other common illnesses are skin fungus, and hair rings. Both of these need to be quickly treated. The best treatment and prevention is putting a teaspoon of Tinactin foot powder in your chinchillas dust bath, OR a oral antibiotic such as Griseofluvin if it is a real strong strain of fungus. *No chin should be given Griseofluvin if under 6 months old, or is pregnant or lactating. Also the dosage should be carefully prescribed by a vet based on each individual chins weight. Skin fungus can sometimes be hard to detect, if a chins skin on feet, nose, ears etc. becomes scaly, red or inflamed, this is a sign. Another visible sign is hair loss. Small patches of lost hair can become huge in a matter of days. They need immediate attention! The skin fungus is highly contagious to humans and other chins. If your chin comes down with this it must be removed from any other chins. And what ever chins the sick one was caged with must be treated also. DO NOT touch anything after you have touched a chin with skin fungus until you wash your hands well with anti-bacterial soap. Once the condition it cleared up with the chin, cage and EVERYTHING your chin has had contact with in the cage needs to be sterilized. The Fungus bacteria lives for a very long time.

The other common illness is "hair rings". Hair rings are pieces of hair that get stuck on a male chins penis. Either from not cleaning properly or trying to mate. If hair rings are not detected, the penis shaft will get swollen, red and irritated looking and could possibly lead to urination problems and impotency. Honestly if a hair ring becomes highly visible from an outside glance, you have let it go too far and not keeping close enough check on your males. YOU SHOULD CHECK YOUR CHINCHILLA MALES MONTHLY!

To look for a hair ring the penis shaft must be gently pushed back toward the chins body until the penis emerges. Once the tip of penis comes out continue holding shaft back and gently take your other hand to pull penis completely out (This normally takes two people. Look for any signs of hair on penis. Hair rings on penis can be easily removed using tweezers (be careful with them). A lot of time the patch or ring of hair comes off in one piece and is fairly easy to remove.

If a hair ring gets VERY bad to where it is extremely irritated and penis will not go back in shaft. Then your last option is to hold the chinchillas genitals under luke warm running water and thoroughly rinse penis and use anti-bacterial soap. Do this twice a day, and if you do not notice a difference within the second day. You must see the vet ASAP!

BREEDING - Gestation is 111 days from proof of copulation. If you know that your chin is pregnant then it is recommended that 2 weeks before due date you should provide a bottle of cranberry juice mixed 50/50 with water. This helps with the lactation of the mother, and good for babies too. Keep the juice in with the mother and babies 2 weeks after the birth also. DO NOT USE ANY JUICE WITH PRESERVATIVES OR SACHIRRIN. Also, do not let chins give birth in ANY cages with a wire floor, ramps (Babies are small and delicate and could easily get injured.), or cage wire openings more that 1 inch x 1/2 an inch big. Babies could escape an opening any larger than this. Father must be removed from cage 2 weeks prior to birth to prevent breedbacks, unless you know exact due date and believe you can catch a birth. If this happens, immediately remove for 10 days. A female Chinchilla goes into heat directly after birth. Baby chins need to be removed from parents after 8 weeks (when they are fully weaned) So that there isn't any interbreeding. Preferable same sex kits should go to each their own cage. Females in one, Males in the other to prevent interbreeding. Males can become sexually mature as young as 12 weeks! There is nightmare cases where VERY young chins become pregnant and either have babies with deformities (due to close relation with father) or chins that are TOO small to have successful births resulting in either the death of the mom, babies or severe mutilation of babies.

Love your Chinchilla and keep it happy and healthy!!

Pellets:

American Pet Diner (APD)- www.americanpetdiner.com - This is what I use. APD has the freshest feed, without corn. I recommend the Gourmet Chinchilla Ration. “The Alfalfa Ration”. This ration is designed for young, growing, finishing, maintenance, and breeding animals. This company also has the freshest hay! This comes in sizes: 24oz. ($3.19), 4lbs ($5.08), 10lbs ($9.48), and 25lbs ($11.11). *These prices do not include shipping.

Mazuri - www.mazuri.com - This is the most common as far as availability. This can be ordered online at many places… and now Petsmart carries small bags, a few places to order are: www.lonestarchinchilla.com, www.chinworld.com, and many breeders sell it. This also can be found at some feed stores. If you go to the Mazuri website you can go to the tab “find a dealer”. Type in your zip code and it will list all the places near you that MAY have it. Call around and see if they sell it and what size bags. Most feed stores only sell 25lb. Bags. For typically around $11-$12. If this is more convenient for you, you can ziplock up the pellets and store it in the refrigerator.

Kline Diet - ingram@rjsonline.net - This is a great diet, but it is expensive. It is $1.10 a lb. You can only order from this dealer.

Oxbow Hay - www.oxbowhay.com - This is a decent feed, but may require supplementing.

Hay:

American Pet Diner (APD) - www.americanpetdiner.com - This company has the best hay in my opinion. I get my chins the 10lb. Bale of Timothy Hay. *Note: 2nd cut hay is always better.

Oxbow Hay - www.oxbowhay.com - This company has good hay too.

Lone Star Chinchilla - www.lonestarchinchilla.com - You can buy your alfalfa cubes here.

Eyes Of Texas Chinchillas - www.eotc-pets.com - I sell alfalfa cubes for $0.50 a lb.

Dust:

Chin World - www.chinworld.com - Blue Cloud Dust. 5lbs. ($3.75), 10lbs. ($6.50), 20lbs. ($11.00), 50lbs. ($21.00) *Not including shipping

Lone Star Chinchilla - www.lonestarchinchilla.com - Blue Sparkle Dust. $1.00lb. *Not including shipping

Eyes Of Texas Chinchillas - www.eotc-pets.com - When I have this available I can sell this for $1.00lb. But can pick up.

Cages:

Martin’s Cages - www.martinscages.com - These are the most common cages that are perfect for chins. If you get one of these shipped… they do not come put together. It is easy to do, but can also be a pain. They send “c” clamps to hold the cage together, and some pliers to bend the “c” clamps.

Custom Cage Works - www.customcageworks.com - All of my cages are made by this company. They are located near Dallas. But if you live near Austin, you can buy their cages at Herpeton Exotic Pets, North location: 8440 Burnet Road #114, South-West location: 4211 S. Lamar Blvd., South-East location: 2121 East Oltorf St. #8.

Bedding:

Lone Star Chinchilla - www.lonestarchinchilla.com - Kiln dried Bedding is the safest bedding for chinchillas. LSC Charges $0.80 a lb. You can also fine kiln dried bedding at some feed stores, tractor supply stores. Make sure it’s 100% kiln dried pine.

Supplement:

Eyes Of Texas Chinchillas - www.eotc-pets.com - You can buy this from me if I have it. This is a awesome mixture of oats and grains and lots of other stuff. It’s good for chins and they love it is a treat! This is $2.50 a lb.

Vet Information:

North Austin/Round Rock:

Dr. David Hocher, DVM
404 Chisholm Valley Drive
Round Rock, Texas 78681
(512) 255-6232

*This vet is my primary vet for my chinchillas. He has seen and treated many of them.

South Austin:

Dr. Harry Miller, DVM
4534 W. Gate Blvd. Ste. #103
Austin, Texas 78745
(512) 892-4463
petandbird.citysearch.com

*This office specializes in lots of different exotics. But warning, this is an expensive clinic!